Homeward Bound

After a very early breakfast, we'll leave Dar es Salaam at 07:25am for a flight to Johannesburg.

We'll have to kill a few hours in Jozi until our 16:25pm flight back to Cape Town.

After arriving in CT and transferring home, we'll finally be done travelling at 8-ish or so.

After another very long day of travelling, I think we'll leave the unpacking for a few days. Perhaps a hot shower then a cold beer and some delicious food will be called for?

THAT'S WHAT THE BROCHURE SAID, THIS IS WHAT REALLY HAPPENED:

We were collected at 5:30 so too early for breakfast. The airport, thankfully is just around the corner. By this point Marco and I were ready to be home. We were tired of lugging our gear with us from place to place.

We got to the airport with no Tanzanian shillings and to get a cup of coffee would have cost $1, with a minimum $5 spend on cards... so we waited till good old SAA served us in the air! (Have I mentioned yet the quality of coffee in Tanzania?? It's not that we're not willing to pay for coffee, but when it's really, really crap coffee - it just ain't worth it!)

We got to Jozi airport and headed straight for Mugg & Bean. We ordered the most delicious double cappuccinos and a range of items for breakfast! We pigged out and chilled out until about 4:30pm for our final flight to CT.

After a steers supper and a nice hot shower we were finally home SWEET home!!

And that... is what REALLY HAPPENED!

Ferry to Dar es Salaam

After breakfast we spend another leisurely morning in Nungwe

In the afternoon we check out and transfer to Zanzibar harbour. From there we will join the ferry from Zanzibar to Dar es Salaam.

We'll be staying at the Peacock Hotel again, so in familiar territory. We'll hopefully be able to explore on our last evening

in Tanzania.

THAT'S WHAT THE BROCHURE SAID, THIS IS WHAT REALLY HAPPENED:

We did have a very relaxing morning. We packed our things, checked out of the room. We mostly chilled on the beach and took in the last few sites until our taxi arrived.

After a mini-panic where I thought I had lost not only our ferry tickets but our passports as well, we eventually found them and got going. 

After only a few minutes on the road we came across a very hectic accident. I won't go into details, but suffice to say, Pray to God that you don't end up in a road accident while out there. That pretty much shook me up for the rest of the trip - hence the complete lack of photos until we reached Dar again.

Also (to try and calm me down) Marco thought this would be the perfect time to teach me how to play chess. You know, on one of those teeny tiny magnetic boards. In a taxi doing about 100km's an hour in the pouring rain on very, very dodgy roads. 

I lost that game!

(Nerves wrecked..) we eventually arrived at the harbour with plenty of time to spare. 

On the brochure we were told we'd have to pay $30 departure tax, each, to leave Zanzibar. That must be an airline thing because we weren't asked for it (yippeee! & Score!!)

The ferry itself took about 2 1/2 hours. They did have air-con on the ferry but it was still unbelievably hot!

On arrival at Dar es Salaam, our trusty Leopard Tours rep met us and took us to the hotel. This would be the last night before heading home.

That night we decided to go to the hotel for dinner - we were both hungry after days of being ill and not eating much over the past few days.

We didn't realise until we were already seated that it was a buffet dinner. (Buffet included banana soup and goats meat.) (PS: banana is in EVERYTHING)

Anyway, aside from it being exorbitantly expensive (R1000 (US$100) for 2 bottles of (cheap) wine and a buffet dinner!) it was our last night and we were determined to have fun!

We had, after all just climbed Kilimanjaro!!

Exploring Nungwe & Stone Town in Zanzibar

Because you can't scuba dive within 24 hours of flying, we've taken the day off from scuba diving.

Today we can properly explore Zanzibar - check out the famed Stone Town and get our own impression of Nungwe - there are mixed reviews online; although some beautiful photos!

THAT'S WHAT THE BROCHURE SAID, THIS IS WHAT REALLY HAPPENED:

Wouldn't Luck Have It!! On the day that I am finally fit and well and we only have one full day left in Zanzibar, Marco gets sick! Something he ate the previous day gave him gippo-guts!! (It wasn't the pizza because I'd eaten it too and, thankfully, I was fine!!)

So we didn't make it out to Stone Town - which is a pity as everyone says it's a 'must' when going to Zanzibar. To be fair though - we weren't really all that keen on paying $60 to be taken 50kms up the road (that's the cost of a one way trip!)

So we mostly just relaxed at the trusted Nungwi Restaurant on the beach. 

We'd bought this cool game - which we've called Beads ('cause we can't remember the real name!) It has something to do with being entertaining but getting you nowhere. :)

We had walked around Nungwe a bit and were quite put off by the filth. The beaches are gorgeous, as is the water. But behind the beach side accommodation, in the town itself, it is pretty disgusting. Besides the excessive plastic pollution (all those water bottles go somewhere) you have to dodge the human excrement just on the ground all over the place. 

Don't get me wrong, I am from Africa. I know what poverty looks like and I am appalled that people in Africa still still in this depth of poverty. But what we experienced here was less poverty and more apathy. The locals just didn't seem to care about their own living environments. To literally shit on your own door step says a lot.

And so, after being a bit grossed out, we decided to keep our eyes forward - towards to beautiful beaches and views and sunsets - which is what we paid very dear $'s to do. 

And it really is so beautiful out there....

Scuba Diving in Zanzibar

If I have any readers left by now, I'd be amazed... yes I am still talking about our wonderful, relaxing holiday in Zanzibar.

Today is the last day of scuba diving that we have prebooked. Another 2 boat dives either here off Zanzibar or off Pemba Island.

All the stories and photographs will be added in here when I get home - so don't forget to check back!

THAT'S WHAT THE BROCHURE SAID, THIS IS WHAT REALLY HAPPENED:

Today we dived with East Africa Diving Company again. We arrived early and took a long boat ride out to Mnemba Atoll for 2 dives. The water is simply indescribable - clearer and warmer than any pool I've seen and this is the open ocean!

Both dives were spectacular. It was as if we were gliding through a huge tropical aquarium. Absolutely stunning, tonnes of tropical fish, coral and we even saw a turtle.

The trip back was gorgeous too. At one point we saw a school of dolphins and in our determination to go swimming with the dolphins we (nearly all of us!) managed a quick pic before bailing out of the boat and swam for our lives. 

Of course the boat went one way and the dolphins the other way and we had to wait to be rescued!  It was totally worth a try though! hee hee hee

When we got back, we wondered up and down the beach and finally found a little restaurant that wasn't too expensive and whose pizza's were wonderful. 

After nearly 4 days of not eating, my appetite was back and we'd found a lovely place to chill for the rest of the day. If you do go out that way, look for the Nungwi Inn, Restaurant and Bar. Highly recommended and right on the beach with stunning views!! (They also do accommodation right on the beach which is probably worth checking out if you're heading this way)

Scuba Dive Pemba Island

Today we have another 2 boat dives booked, although I'd really like to see whether we can get to Pemba Island for a dive instead.

For more info / images see here: http://www.swahilidivers.com/diving.htm

THAT'S WHAT THE BROCHURE SAID, THIS IS WHAT REALLY HAPPENED:

Having still not eaten anything since my dinner on Thursday night I was feeling really weak and lethargic. None of the food in the restaurants was appealing to me and they were really expensive too! We'd seen a sign for a toasted cheese & tomato sandwich for $8 (that's about R80) 

Yesterday while I was in the room, Marco went for lunch on his own. He ordered a beef fillet for $15 and was given an over cooked minute steak.

I guess we were just shocked at the cost of bad quality food available from most of the restaurants along the beaches. We eventually found a stall that sold some fruit. We bought mangoes, papaya, oranges and had that for breakfast in our room.

I won't go into detail about it but there is a fly problem too and with all the restaurants being outdoor ones it makes having meals a bit challenging. The locals seem to think its hysterical that we keep swatting the flies away off our food.

We didn't make it to Pemba Island (unfortunaltey) but we did manage to go for 2 local boat dives today with East Africa Diving. They were very organised throughout all the dives, had excellent quality gear to hire and I would highly recommend them.

The water is just superb! It's warm and it's so clear. The dives were both fairly easy which is great. The coral, tropical fish, star fish, turtles and rays all make these dives unforgettable!

After 2 gorgeous dives we headed back up the beach. We stopped off at Linga Linga for dinner. This awesome restaurant is right next to our room (although not part of the same complex) and offer accommodation in addition to their very cool restaurant.

Marco enjoyed his dinner - and mine. I still couldn't stomach anything (although their food was very good).

We enjoyed some cold Kilimanjaro beers and a gorgeous sunset. After dinner we just headed back to the room for some more blessed air-conditioning!

Happy Valentine's Day

And what better place to celebrate it than in Zanzibar?  Last year we spent Valentines Day with Rex & Angelica in Kingston in the UK - movie and a dinner, I recall? 

Well I have to say that Zanzibar beats Kingston (sorry guys - but it's true!)

Today (aside from *celebrating* Valentine's Day) we have 2 boat dives planned.

The scuba diving in Zanzibar is supposed to be spectacular. See for yourself:

http://www.zanzibar-diving.com/pics_underwater.html

http://www.scubashackzanzibar.com/photos.html

http://www.scuba-do-zanzibar.com/PhotoAlbum.htm

Hopefully by this stage I not only have my little waterproof camera with me, but I also have the right memory in it and batteries that work!

THAT'S WHAT THE BROCHURE SAID AND THIS IS WHAT REALLY HAPPENED:

Unfortunately I couldn't do much *celebrating* on Valentine's Day. Thankfully we got the water turned back on and thankfully the room was air-conditioned. I spent most of the day in our room recovering. I could not eat anything; the very sight and smell of food made my stomach turn - which meant that I was a really shitty date. Literally.

There were some other romantic couples who hired some of the Dhow boats for cruises. Very sweet, the boats were decorated with red & white balloons, some of which ended up floating past our room.

The tide changes were pretty huge - over night the water was right up to our balcony. In the pic below, the water would rise to about 1/2 up that coral rock. During the day is went to low tide - low enough to expose this beautiful beach.

The water itself is AMAZING. It's very warm and very salty. It is so clear that we could swim out really far and still be able to make out every grain of sand on the bottom and every little fish, star fish, sea urchin and other little sea creatures in the water.

Due to being sick I forfeited my 2 dives that I had booked for today. Because Marco was looking after me he forfeited his two dives as well. Sux for both of us. The dive company did lend us snorkeling kit instead and we went out in the afternoon when I started feeling a bit better.

The Day After

This will be the BEST Friday the 13th Ever!

After breakfast, we transfer to Arusha airport for a 11:00am flight to Zanzibar.

We transfer to Amaan Bungalows to a gorgeous sea view room for the next 5 nights.

To quote their website:

"As we are on the north western point – we are able to view beautiful sunsets. As we are in Nungwi, the northern most part – we have wild tropical surroundings and pristine white beaches, and as we are on Zanzibar, we are surrounding by the unforgettable turquoise water of the Indian Ocean. A postcard picture for sure."

Um.. need I say more?

THAT'S WHAT THE BROCHURE SAID AND THIS IS WHAT REALLY HAPPENED:

Hee hee - how naive! Friday the 13th - IS Friday The Thirteenth.

I woke up feeling a little 'weird'. I couldn't quite put my finger on it, but opted out of breakfast.

We had most of the day to relax - our flight was at 3:30, so our driver was to collect us at 1:30. 

They (2 drivers) turned up at 10:30 (a little too early!) and kept asking to check my ticket, not entirely believing me that my flight was later in the afternoon (odd - because they were the ones who changed my flight from the 11:00am one to the later one - yup, good old Leopard Tours again...)

We wondered around the hotel, spent some time in the Internet cafe ($5 for one hour) and then had some coffee. Er for the coffee lovers.... this was great, they brought us a flask of hot water, 2 cups and a little plate with packet sugar, packet milk and oh yes.. packet instant coffee.... hmm not bad for a fancy hotel, hey?  :(

Anyway we eventually headed out to the Arusha airport. By this point I was feeling decidedly worse - I didn't know what was wrong with me... I was just feeling WeIrD.

Then, about an hour before we took off I headed to the bathroom. This was first of many, many trips over the next 24 hours. I had picked up a stomach bug of some or other description.

Lucky me - I'm squirting out both ends and just about to take a 1 hour flight to Zanzibar... not good!

Oh, and just before we left, we were told by a Leopard Tours rep that our baggage wouldn't make it on the flight. We were to take out all essentials and take them as hand luggage. They said that when we get to Zanzibar we'd have to fill in a form which would have the airport deliver the luggage the following day. 

Irk! To say the least - but there we are (for a second time in a week) unpacking our luggage and trying to fit the essentials into the limited hand-luggage.

So off we go...

I managed to sleep (or at least trick my body into thinking that I was sleeping) for the duration of the flight.

On arrival at Zanzibar (and it was very humid again!) I tried to find the 'guy' that I am supposed to fill the forms out with. He suggests we check to see whether or not the luggage actually made it. So back to the luggage retrieval area we go (there are no conveyor belts... only people throwing luggage around). And after 10 or 20 minutes - there was our luggage... all of it!

So why we were told it wasn't going to be on the plane is beyond me.

We make our way outside where we are supposed to meet another Leopard Tours rep (who was supposed to have our Ferry tickets for the following week) but he didn't bother turning up.

We were also supposed to meet the driver for Amaan Bungalows - who thankfully did turn up. We had a trolley with our luggage and as we were following the driver back to the car about 5 other locals followed us, all with a finger touching our luggage (which was still on the trolley!) all shouting out 'porter' 'porter'! They actually (all 5 of them) wanted a tip for following us and ensuring that our luggage didn't magically fall off the trolley. And then they had the audacity to get pissed when we didn't tip them!

Anyway we eventually made it to the sanctuary of the car which had the aircon on full blast, thankfully. I was feeling worse and worse as the day went by...

It took us a further hour and a half to get to Nungwi Village. Along the way we were stopped at no less than 5 military / police points. Some of them wanted to see the driver's permit, some were bribed, another demanded a lift in our taxi to the next military stop. All very odd...

On arrival at Amaan Bungalows, I was vaguely aware of my beautiful surroundings but I was just so ill that I went straight to bed.

I spent the next 18 hours between the bed and the bathroom... not pleasant At All.

Oh and just as a treat, they turned the water pump off so I ran out of water in the middle of the night... nothing to drink, no flushing, no cleaning... it was and I was really gross.