Sunday, December 21, 2008

Unexpected over-night in Suicide Gorge

On Sunday, 21 December a small group of us (6 in total) decided to go Kloofing in Suicide Gorge (Grabbow, Western Cape).

Cape Nature, who we booked through gave us very thorough instructions on what to do, what to take, what to expect. We glanced over the lists and thought, "hey, it'll be fine!" and off we went.

One particular thing they mentioned was:

"First time hikers for the kloofing routes must be guided by an experienced kloofer."

Of course none of us had been before, but we all knew someone who had and despite the odd story here and there of people getting suck, the whole day seemed to be about who would have the biggest balls to jump off Suicide Gorge.


For those of you who don't know: Kloofing involves following a trail for a few hours hike into the mountains. You eventually come to a little river which waterfalls into a little pool. 

The idea is that you jump into the pool and make your way down river to the next one. From there the jumps get increasingly bigger - a lot of them (for the chickens!) you can get around without jumping.

HOWEVER, the last jump is a MUST DO. Its slippery and very high - reports vary and its hard to judge when you're jumping (it always seems so much higher!) But I think you're looking in the region on 15 meters. (Corrections welcome!)

If you have any issues with heights, this is probably not the place you want to learn to over come them.


Our day out started with taking a 2 hour detour (missing the turn off for Suicide Gorge completely) This set back in time didn't really register. We were just happy to find the correct trail and off we went. 

The hike itself is beautiful and we had a wonderful time making our way down to the gorge. Finding the water pools was a relief (it seemed to take forever to get there.) The water is a dark brown colour but perfectly clean and safe and warm (we went in December).

Our second delay (sorry Robs!) was on our last jump, where all but one of us had made the final jump into the pool. We had one person who froze in fear of the height and it took all of our positive thoughts and positive reinforcements and all the bravery in the world for our last jumper to make it down.

By that time, we decided to do a time check - it was 7pm and only then did we realise we still had hours worth of hiking ahead of us. 

At this point our unreliable maps were soaking (after a day's worth of kloofing not many waterproof bags were still waterproof!) We weren't sure what to do next. There were no path ways, no signs, no nothing. We were trapped in a ravine with no inkling of where to go. 

This is where we all remember the advice: "First time hikers for the kloofing routes must be guided by an experienced kloofer." Oops!

And this is also where we start cussing the accuracy of their maps and lack of sign-boards...

Going down river was no option as we couldn't see the next pool and to slide down at speed to land on who knows what, was absolutely out. With no path, we decided to bundubash up the ravine through the bush. We moved up, past the last pool and down to the river again.

Let me just say - this was hectic. We're talking an almost vertical climb up a ravine through sharp pointy bushes to hold onto, slippery sand underfoot. We found routes, decided they were not safe. Backtracked to find the other option even less safe and coming back to the one we'd abandoned and just pushed on through. We were getting tired and moody, a little scared and its a miracle not one of us got hurt!

At this point the light was starting to wane. There was still no sign of a real path and we began thinking that getting home was probably not going to be an option.

Nevertheless - optimistic as we were, we hiked up and down the riverbed for another hour. Disputing routes and directions to go in, splitting up in the hopes of finding the way out. 

With about 10 mins of light left, we found the 'escape route'. With no torches and no idea of where we were going, we decided to use the rest of the light to collect wood and set up camp on the pebble riverbed for the night.

PS: No cellphone reception at the bottom of the ravine!

Anyway - we were very lucky, we found enough wood to last the night (thanks guys for collecting the second batch in complete darkness). We had lighters to make fire. My brother had bought rope which we used as a clothes line over the fire to dry out our wet towels and clothes (which would be desperately needed later in the night). My dear hubby collected leaves and small branches and stuffed them in my back pack to make a 'mattress / thermal layer' to lie on. 


We had enough snacks to keep us going and first aid kits which helped for aches and pains all around.

As mentioned before the water was perfectly safe, so we were lucky to be able to drink directly from the river (and I can tell you that no one got sick from it later on) 

We still had bin bags (which could have been put to better use actually keeping our stuff dry) but the spare bags doubled up as sleeping bags for some. (Even for the one who had a space blanket and forgot about it!)

We settled in for a night of very uncomfortable rest. Aside from the sound of baboons nearby and the glow of (wild cats?) eyes from across the river, we were entirely safe. The only other noise was my snoring from blocked sinuses inhaling buckets full of smoke from our little fire (sorry guys!)

The morning was cold and we waiting an hour into sun-up before heading up the ravine and off to the comfort of food, coffee and all things clean and soft! 

About 2 hours into our hike we came across an angel in the form of John & his 4X4. Bless him, he'd waited for us late into the night and again first thing in the morning worrying about what may have happened to this little group of intrepid hikers. Thanks to John our hike back to our cars was cut in 1/2.

This meant that we could get to the nearby farm restaurant for a scrumptious breakfast in no time. 

And not a moment too soon!!

There are so many survival techniques we learnt and talked about from this little experience that it's made us a lot more careful about going out.  I've blogged a hikers guide for tourists to Cape Town based on a lot of what I learnt here.

More importantly for Marco & I, from a Kili perspective, we're paying very careful attention to what we'd need in order to keep safe on the mountain in the event we are injured or separated from our group. Lots to think about...

Saturday, December 20, 2008

Trekkers Guide to Kilimanjaro


One of the most valuable resources I have come across in planning our Kili trip is a little book called:

Kilimanjaro - A Complete Trekker's Guide, by Alexander Stewart

ISBN: 978-1-85284-413-4

If you Google "ISBN: 9781852844134" you'll find enough information on the book and where you can buy it.

The information in here is extensive, interesting and its small enough to take up Kili with us when we go (it has detailed descriptions on routes, which may be valuable should we get lost or separated from our group)

Friday, December 19, 2008

Choosing an operator


Choosing your operator is probably the most important thing to do. It is also one of the most difficult things to do.

The basic requirements are fairly obvious from picking a reputable company with good experience, good references, good kit and very importantly excellent ethics when it comes to employing porters and guides.

You are quite literally putting your life in their hands.

Then there is the cost to be considered. I trawled through tonnes of information online and found it quite difficult to make a choice.

I had to repeatedly ask for quotes, compare them in price, understand what those prices included. Judging suppliers by their response time and willingness to answer stupid questions over and over again.

In the end the choice was a tough one, but for me the company that came up tops was Destination Africa Tours. You can view their website at:


I'm particularly impressed with their personal experience in climbing Kili. Their knowledge and advice has been invaluable. I've received a 72 page document designed to answer every question imaginable (and more!) regarding this adventure.

It covers everything from routes, gear, nutrition, detailed exercise programmes, vaccinations, information on acute mountain sickness, altitude sickness, visa requirements, insurance - THE LOT.

They (we) have had a tough time trying to secure this adventure, what with the dollar all over the place in the past few months and then with Air Tanzania being grounded in mid-December. 

Nikki has been marvelous with arranging alternatives, advising on kit to rent versus kit to buy.

We're not quite there yet, but so far I have nothing but compliments for Nikki & the team at DAT.

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

Choosing a route up Kilimanjaro

There are a number of routes to the top of Kibo. Each has its upside and its downside (seriously, no pun intended - ag!)

We decided on the Machame Route. The reason for this came down to 3 main things:
  • It's a longer route (good for acclimatisation and therefore a great chance of success)
  • It goes through 5 different eco-systems
  • It's less popular than the Marangu Route (aka Coca-Cola Route)
What may be helpful for you to decide is giving you a very brief breakdown of the different routes:

MARANGU ROUTE (Coca-cola Route)
Length = 5 days
Grade = Moderate / Hard
Ascent = 65km

UMBWE ROUTE
Length = 5 days
Grade = Hard
Ascent = 44km

MACHAME ROUTE (Whiskey Route)
Length = 6 days (we've added on a day for extra acclimatisation)
Grade = Hard
Ascent = 61km

LEMOSHO ROUTE
Length =  days
Grade = Moderate / Hard
Ascent = 72km

SHIRA ROUTE
Length = 6 days
Grade = Moderate / Hard
Ascent = 67km

RONGAI ROUTE
Length = 6 Days
Grade = Moderate/ Hard
Ascent = 54km

Deciding on a route will come down to fitness levels, personal preference, cost, available time.

The best thing to do is to research as much as possible. Also ask your operator to give you the main differences between them, describe your (intended) fitness levels and seek their advice.

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Kilimanjaro, one of the Seven Summits

According to Wikipedia, "The Seven Summits are the highest mountains of each of the seven continents

Summiting all of them is regarded as a mountaineering challenge, first postulated as such in the 1980s by Richard Bass"

At this point in time, we have no ambition to summit all 7, but just out of curiosity and for further information, these are the 7 Summits Facts:

In order of height:

Asia
Everest (Sagarmatha or Chomolungma)
8848m or 29029ft

South America
Aconcagua
6962m or 22841ft

North America
Mount McKinley (Denali)
6194m or 20320ft

Africa
Kilimanjaro (Kibo Summit)
5895m or 19341ft

Europe
Elbrus
5642m or 18510ft

Antarctica (claimed by Chile)
Vinson Massif
4892m or 16050ft

Australia-New Guinea
Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya)
4884m or 16024ft

Australia
Kosciuszko
2228m or 7310ft


I just wanted to add a little snippet (also from the aforementioned wiki-page) titled: Criticism of the Seven Summits challenge

"... who argue that it tempts the ambitious but inexperienced into paying large sums to professional guides who promise the "seven", and that the guides are therefore pressured to press on toward summits even to the detriment of their clients' safety"

This has been apparent in our experience, particularly at the level of buying kit - where the shop assistant hears " we're climbing Kili" (or, actually they hear "$$$$$$") and instead of relying on getting good advice you have to be careful to weed out the knowledgeable from the greedy.

Monday, December 15, 2008

Why Climb Kilimanjaro?


What makes you decide to do something like 
Climb Kilimanjaro?

Perhaps you're on your way to completing the famous 
7 summits?

Perhaps you're a keen mountaineer or hiker who has always wanted to face this challenge.

Or perhaps you were invited to a Facebook group called:

"Things I want to do before I die, join the amazing adventure.."

Well that's why I decided to do it. Marco had to tag along -> you know: for better or for worse...

And so on a whim, I've been Googling my little heart out. Seeking websites, blogs anything to find out what I have let myself into!

So this is my blog on our little journey. I'll share what I've found and hopefully it'll inspire you to do something amazing in your life.

What one person can do, another can do - it's just a matter of knowledge and the desire to do so.

We'll let you know what its like at the top!